The road off the Ali Kadal precinct in the city core is where fourteenth century Srinagar lived and died. However, despite the historical significance of this area, a lack of conservation awareness and rebuilding over the years, has resulted in a loss of much of its original charm and character.
Yet, even today, walking in this area gives one a sense of travelling into the past, of examining the close interplay of royalty and religion in the Bulbul Shah Lankar Rinchen cenotaph off Ali Kadal.
Ali Kadal Bridge and Chowk
Our first stop on this walk is the Ali Kadal Bridge, a fine example of Kashmiri trussed bridge. Originally, however, all Kashmiri bridges were cantilever bridges, where the main supports or piers were formed of layers of deodar logs resting on a foundation of uncemented stones enclosed in a triangular wooden frame.
The layers were laid alternately lengthwise and across, each projecting slightly beyond the one immediately beneath it. This gave the piers the shape of an inverted pyramid, and, by reducing the distance between the piers, permitted the logs to be laid from one pier to the next one, thus forming the road. The piers were, therefore, strong enough to deal with the swirling flood waters below and a sufficiently heavy load of traffic above.
If you look downstream (i.e., in the opposite direction to Zaina Kadal) you will see a complex of important historical buildings on the right bank of the river. Most of these are linked to the very early history of medieval Kashmir, particularly to the lives of its first Muslim King Rinchen/Sadruddin and his own Sufi mentor, Bulbul Shah. Bulbul Shah was a widely travelled Musavi Sayyid from Turkestan, a disciple of the Surawardi School of Sufis. It is said that when he passed away, one of the pallbearers of his coffin was the very young Zain-ul-Abidin, later to become the famous Budshah of Kashmir.
This frontage on the river is, therefore, one of the oldest sections of the town. It is important to remember that the Jhelum was the essential artery of the city in the past as all transportation was only by water. So, all major buildings came up along its banks and could initially only be accessed by boat.
Look along the river’s right bank to see Rinchen’s mosque, followed by the shrine and mosque of Owaisi Saheb, then the building belonging to the Shahdaad family – originally Tibet baqals or those involved in trading on the Yarh and Leh Srinagar route.
Just below this building is the Durga pathshala and, finally, Bulbul Lankar, a shrine to Bulbul Shah and the hospice. Unfortunately, however, most of these buildings have lost their original character as extensive constructions over the centuries have paid little attention to the conservation of the original architecture.
But before moving on, stop for a moment to see the varied activity on the ghats of the city. Directly below Richen’s mosque, towards right, artisans can be seen washing the raw material of shawls called ruffle in the swift flowing waters of the Jhelum. (For more details on the all important shawl trade of Srinagar see pages 196-204). Further ahead, on yet another ghat, the huge cooking vessels of the traditional wazwans or master chefs are being washed. One can only begin to conjecture for how many hundreds of years similar activities have been taken place daily on these very ghats!
It is now time to enter Ali Kadal Chowk and walk down the road on your left with a number of historical sites located on it. Remember that you are walking a path well traversed in fourteenth- century Srinagar where the Sufi saint Bulbul Shah and his most prominent follower, the Ladakhi Prince, Rinchen Shah, who converted to Islam, lived and died.
The Ali Kadal Chowk
The Ali Kadal Chowk is one of the prominent public spaces in the old city that continues to serve as a vibrant civic plaza lined with bazaars and residences. The chowk has always been a major urban centre as it is located at the junction of the road leading from the bridge, and the main court road, serving as a secondary spine of transportation running parallel to the river.
The main chowk is dominated by the two-storied building of the Qazi Jamal-ud-din mosque with two narrow streets on either side, lined with three to four-storied residential buildings with shops on the ground floor. Many buildings still retain many of the features of traditional indigenous architecture like projecting dubs and lattice work (pinjarakari) window frames.
The overall street façade serves as a cohesive linear stretch, though some of the buildings have been reconstructed. The edges of the street and main Ali Kadal are lined with a number of hawkers, making the chowk a bustling civic centre.
...Life Along the River
From the riverside windows the city people can see life − busy and picturesque. Various boats of all sizes are to be seen, from the great grain barges which lie moored to the ghats to the little shell in which the Dal lake cultivator paddles his vegetables and lake-produce to market, and up and down the river paddled with many strong arms go the dungas of officials, merchants and travellers.
Perhaps the daily boat up to Islamabad or down to Baramula is at last starting, if sufficient passengers have taken seats, the boat is low down in the water and each man is sitting in his neighbour’s lap; or a pleasure party is starting to Manasbal, or a pilgrim boat is setting off for some shrine.
The topsey-turvey bathing-boxes are full of people leisurely bathing, chattering, and gesticulating. In the winter the scene changes, the river narrows and falls, the lattice widows are covered with paper, and no one stirs out on the river except on urgent business.
Walter R. Lawrence
The Valley of Kashmir
Wazwan
In the valley of Kashmir, the preparation of the traditional wazwan feast is considered an art, with considerable time and effort going into it. The post of head chef or vasta waz is hereditary, moving down from father to son and many families trace their cooking skills back to the time their forefathers lived in Samarkand. The influence of Persia in cuisine can be seen in the style of food, how it is prepared and how it is served. Wan indicates a shop with an abundant supply of meat and delicacies.
Hours of planning, shopping and cooking result in the wazwan. At its most elaborate it consists of 36 different dishes. The philosophy of the wazwan is that the guests in turn must do full justice to the meal.
This has been excerpted from 'Srinagar: An Architectural Legacy' by Feisal Alkazi, published by Roli Books and Intach.
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Yet, even today, walking in this area gives one a sense of travelling into the past, of examining the close interplay of royalty and religion in the Bulbul Shah Lankar Rinchen cenotaph off Ali Kadal.
Ali Kadal Bridge and Chowk
Our first stop on this walk is the Ali Kadal Bridge, a fine example of Kashmiri trussed bridge. Originally, however, all Kashmiri bridges were cantilever bridges, where the main supports or piers were formed of layers of deodar logs resting on a foundation of uncemented stones enclosed in a triangular wooden frame.
The layers were laid alternately lengthwise and across, each projecting slightly beyond the one immediately beneath it. This gave the piers the shape of an inverted pyramid, and, by reducing the distance between the piers, permitted the logs to be laid from one pier to the next one, thus forming the road. The piers were, therefore, strong enough to deal with the swirling flood waters below and a sufficiently heavy load of traffic above.
If you look downstream (i.e., in the opposite direction to Zaina Kadal) you will see a complex of important historical buildings on the right bank of the river. Most of these are linked to the very early history of medieval Kashmir, particularly to the lives of its first Muslim King Rinchen/Sadruddin and his own Sufi mentor, Bulbul Shah. Bulbul Shah was a widely travelled Musavi Sayyid from Turkestan, a disciple of the Surawardi School of Sufis. It is said that when he passed away, one of the pallbearers of his coffin was the very young Zain-ul-Abidin, later to become the famous Budshah of Kashmir.
This frontage on the river is, therefore, one of the oldest sections of the town. It is important to remember that the Jhelum was the essential artery of the city in the past as all transportation was only by water. So, all major buildings came up along its banks and could initially only be accessed by boat.
Look along the river’s right bank to see Rinchen’s mosque, followed by the shrine and mosque of Owaisi Saheb, then the building belonging to the Shahdaad family – originally Tibet baqals or those involved in trading on the Yarh and Leh Srinagar route.
Just below this building is the Durga pathshala and, finally, Bulbul Lankar, a shrine to Bulbul Shah and the hospice. Unfortunately, however, most of these buildings have lost their original character as extensive constructions over the centuries have paid little attention to the conservation of the original architecture.
But before moving on, stop for a moment to see the varied activity on the ghats of the city. Directly below Richen’s mosque, towards right, artisans can be seen washing the raw material of shawls called ruffle in the swift flowing waters of the Jhelum. (For more details on the all important shawl trade of Srinagar see pages 196-204). Further ahead, on yet another ghat, the huge cooking vessels of the traditional wazwans or master chefs are being washed. One can only begin to conjecture for how many hundreds of years similar activities have been taken place daily on these very ghats!
It is now time to enter Ali Kadal Chowk and walk down the road on your left with a number of historical sites located on it. Remember that you are walking a path well traversed in fourteenth- century Srinagar where the Sufi saint Bulbul Shah and his most prominent follower, the Ladakhi Prince, Rinchen Shah, who converted to Islam, lived and died.
The Ali Kadal Chowk
The Ali Kadal Chowk is one of the prominent public spaces in the old city that continues to serve as a vibrant civic plaza lined with bazaars and residences. The chowk has always been a major urban centre as it is located at the junction of the road leading from the bridge, and the main court road, serving as a secondary spine of transportation running parallel to the river.
The main chowk is dominated by the two-storied building of the Qazi Jamal-ud-din mosque with two narrow streets on either side, lined with three to four-storied residential buildings with shops on the ground floor. Many buildings still retain many of the features of traditional indigenous architecture like projecting dubs and lattice work (pinjarakari) window frames.
The overall street façade serves as a cohesive linear stretch, though some of the buildings have been reconstructed. The edges of the street and main Ali Kadal are lined with a number of hawkers, making the chowk a bustling civic centre.
...Life Along the River
From the riverside windows the city people can see life − busy and picturesque. Various boats of all sizes are to be seen, from the great grain barges which lie moored to the ghats to the little shell in which the Dal lake cultivator paddles his vegetables and lake-produce to market, and up and down the river paddled with many strong arms go the dungas of officials, merchants and travellers.
Perhaps the daily boat up to Islamabad or down to Baramula is at last starting, if sufficient passengers have taken seats, the boat is low down in the water and each man is sitting in his neighbour’s lap; or a pleasure party is starting to Manasbal, or a pilgrim boat is setting off for some shrine.
The topsey-turvey bathing-boxes are full of people leisurely bathing, chattering, and gesticulating. In the winter the scene changes, the river narrows and falls, the lattice widows are covered with paper, and no one stirs out on the river except on urgent business.
Walter R. Lawrence
The Valley of Kashmir
Wazwan
In the valley of Kashmir, the preparation of the traditional wazwan feast is considered an art, with considerable time and effort going into it. The post of head chef or vasta waz is hereditary, moving down from father to son and many families trace their cooking skills back to the time their forefathers lived in Samarkand. The influence of Persia in cuisine can be seen in the style of food, how it is prepared and how it is served. Wan indicates a shop with an abundant supply of meat and delicacies.
Hours of planning, shopping and cooking result in the wazwan. At its most elaborate it consists of 36 different dishes. The philosophy of the wazwan is that the guests in turn must do full justice to the meal.
This has been excerpted from 'Srinagar: An Architectural Legacy' by Feisal Alkazi, published by Roli Books and Intach.