A short drive away from Gangtok, the capital of Sikkim, lies the mystical Rumtek Monastery, which is the seat of various relics of the ancient Buddhist world. I have come here before, especially for a meditation session with the resident monks. It was an uplifting and positive experience that really helped me gather myself and put my scattered energy into focus.
This monastery is one of the most peaceful places near Gangtok. Also called the Dharma Chakra Centre, its ancient walls are charged with vibrations way beyond our frequency. At first glance, it appears to be an ordinary Buddhist monastery, with prayer wheels decorated along the walkway but, as you venture deeper into the grounds, it opens up hidden secrets. A land where legends entwine with religious beliefs. These legends are passed down through sacred texts and divine art forms that are found within the monastery. The smell of oil-laden lamps and young monks playing football in the courtyard brings a smile to my face. I visited this place many times as a child but now, visiting this place again as an adult seems to be affecting me differently. I want to investigate the history of the monastery and look into the various folklore surrounding its existence.
This time, I take a guide with me who explains the significance of the place along with its gripping legends. As I walk in, I clear my mind of its various thoughts, turning it into an empty vessel, a chalice, ready to expand the hidden dimensions of my mind. My guide explains that Rumtek is part of one of the many schools of Buddhism, called Karma Kagyu. He also explains the significance of this place and why His Holiness the Dalai Lama frequently visits this monastery. “Rumtek is said to be the seat of the ‘Karmapas’. This monastery was founded in the 16th century but was refurbished by the sixteenth Karmapa who came to Sikkim from Tibet. He was in exile and took Rumtek to be his home of solace. He found a sense of tranquillity in this monastery and began to impart his teachings to various monks who looked to him for guidance. His body is preserved within a golden stupa with many priceless relics in the monastery. It is considered to be a shrine. Lighting incense is a form of worship, which purifies the sacred space.”
The strong smell of camphor burning in the courtyard leads me into the sacred monastery. As the conversation continues, I am intrigued by what my guide has to say. During my previous visits to Rumtek, I did not ask many questions, but this time, I want to know what this monastery has been hiding within itself. My curious mind is seeking some answers. I hear a strange calling from this energized place – seek and you shall find. This came to my mind in that very instant. Like a ringing in my head. A higher force at play.
I check my wristwatch as I stand between the pillars of wisdom. It is 11.11 am. A moment of synchronised events. My intimate interaction with the cosmos through binary numbers. The language of the universe. I follow my thirst for knowledge and head out to seek answers.
My guide starts the tour by explaining the origin of the monastery. He clears his throat and says, “The Karmapas are known as the Black Hat Lamas.” I notice ancient paintings on the walls, called “thankas”, depicting the Karmapas with black crowns on their heads. It’s something I have never seen other Buddhist lamas or monks wear. “This black hat symbolises the divine power of the Karmapas. Only the chosen ones were allowed to wear this distinct black hat. Legend has it that the first Karmapa was visited by several astral fairies known as ‘Dakinis’ in Tibetan Buddhism. Dakinis are called ‘sky dancers’ who bestowed on the Karmapa a precious gift during their arrival in the human realm. Each fairy offered a strand of their beautiful black hair that held divine magical powers.
They asked the first Karmapa to cherish this and keep it as a form of blessing for the kingdom. It is strictly to be held by the Karmapa himself and is handed down through generations to the next Karmapa. This is a form of astral coronation. The other-worldly hair strands of these dakinis were woven into the black hat we see the Karmapa wearing today. This relic is safeguarded in the Rumtek Monastery and it is believed that if the hat is not adorned by the Karmapa, it should be kept away safely in an airtight box.
Legends hold warnings that if the instructions are not followed accurately then the black hat will fly away, disappearing back into the realm of the fairies,” my guide says, catching my attention. I begin to feel butterflies in my stomach. It rings a bell in my mind, one that is already curious about exploring other dimensions of existence.
The sweet aroma of sandalwood guides me to a colourful wall. I gaze into an ancient painting of a dakini wearing a crown of flowers underneath an arch of red flames. Her golden body is slender, like a sparkling chalice. I walk past a jewelled pagoda with a golden stupa that is studded with turquoise stones.
I ask my guide if I can take a look at the black hat but he shakes his head, saying the hat is kept away in secrecy till the new Karmapa takes his seat in the Rumtek Monastery. Only a select few lamas know its location.
Excerpted with permission from Kanchenjunga Whispers: Legends and Tales from The Elgin, Rea Oberoi, Rupa Publications.