How did Amrut, a home-grown Indian whiskey, become a force to reckon with in the burgeoning global spirits market? How did a small family-run business transform into an international empire? What kind of Western biases do whiskey entrepreneurs from South Asia face? How has alcohol’s “love-hate” relationship with policy in India evolved? Why were state governments seen opening liquor stores during the COVID-19 pandemic lockdowns when everything else was closed?
These are some of the questions you’ll encounter in Amrut, the Great Churn: The Global Story of India’s Single Malt. A biography of the Bengaluru-based Amrut Distilleries, the book explores several interesting themes cutting across branding, distillation techniques, the spirits industry, the melding of the personal and the professional, and beyond, encapsulating the remarkable journey and evolution of Amrut.
The author, business storyteller Sriram Devatha, charts the rise of Amrut Distilleries and its flagship single malt whiskey, a trailblazer in India’s spirits industry with several variants sold across leading global retailers. Notably, the book is not just a dry recount of a brand’s success story, but also offers plenty of fodder for debate around the evolution of made-in-India whiskey, the risks innovators face, and industry dynamics in the global spirits market.
Amrut’s story is fascinating for its innovation and drive. When Amrut Distilleries introduced the country’s first single malt whiskey, the concept was viewed as groundbreaking. For a country more comfortably associated with rum and whiskey blends, a single malt whiskey produced from Indian ingredients and matured in the region’s climate was a brave move.
“So, the whiskey conceptualised in Ooty, perfected in Bangalore, tested and tasted across Europe, reached the residence of Jim Murray in Northamptonshire.”
Devatha sketches the historical backdrop that led to this pivotal moment in the brand’s story, tracing the rich origins of whisky and Amrut in India, setting the stage for the brand’s unprecedented venture, and contextualising the company's challenges within this larger backdrop. “Start with the bare bones and slowly add muscle and tissue – this was the approach,” writes the author.
The book provides a detailed exploration of Amrut’s production process, offering a comprehensive glimpse into the distillation techniques and maturation processes that distinguish Amrut’s single malts. The author delves into the specifics of how climactic conditions influence the ageing process and gives Amrut’s whiskies their unique character, making for an enlightening read for those interested in the technical aspects of whiskey production and the science and rationale behind distinct flavour profiles and ranges.
Devatha also goes behind the scenes to introduce readers to the people and practices behind Amrut’s success. The book profiles key figures, including Amrut’s founder, JN Radhakrishna, and his vision for the company, as well as its UK sales head and chief distiller, Ashok Chokalingam. These personal anecdotes and scenes add depth to the narrative, showcasing the dedication – and a slew of obstacles – that drove the brand’s success.
Whiskey of the west
A significant portion of the book is spent discussing the problems Amrut faced in gaining global acceptance, particularly scepticism from established markets and the feat of contending with renowned global giants.
“Some people would mockingly ask us, ‘Is it (Amrut) made from the Ganges?’ Some were downright insulting: ‘Is the water used clean?’ Until they tried it. They would be shocked and bring back their friends and say, ‘You’ve gotta try this. This is amazing.’”
Beyond the Western biases against Indian whiskey in the early days, what stands out is the realisation for the company that for Indian whiskey to be acceptable to Indians, it would first have to be accepted by the Scots.
“Even Indians in the UK were sceptical about a quality single malt coming out of India. Ashok was convinced that for Amrut to take off, he had to break this bias. But how?”
Another instance:
“Amrut was not Scotch, simply because it wasn’t produced in Scotland, nor did it come from the traditional whiskey bastions. It was Indian – a major drawback. Same as in the UK, no one expected India to make good whiskey. Paradoxically, the Indians and Indian-origin Americans were the harshest critics of Amrut in those fledgling days. ‘No way India distilled good whisky; they thought it was Indian-made foreign liquor,’ says Bill ... Indians associated class with Johnnie Walker and Macallan, not Amrut. The big fat Indian wedding offered sumptuous lunches and sips of these mainstream brands. The walking man had become a symbol of affluence. If you drank Johnnie in India, you had made it.”
The result: A pioneering spirits maker that positioned the country as a significant player in the global market and is giving popular legacy whiskies stiff competition. The book also highlights key milestones, such as Amrut’s first international awards, and examines how these accolades helped establish its credibility on the global stage. The story touches on the cultural and economic implications of Amrut’s success, connecting its story to the larger trends in the global luxury goods market and India’s economic standing.
On the rocks
“Hmm. Is it branding?” Ashok replied.
“Yes. Sell the story well, and you’ll sell every last dram.”
While Amrut: The Great Churn is a compelling account, readers might have benefitted from a more balanced examination of the subjects in question (the lack of which makes the story feel more conspicuously like a promotional piece rather than a balanced account), broader context, and a stronger narrative structure. Also, the book occasionally delves into technical details that may be overwhelming or tedious for some readers.
The extensive focus on production techniques, while informative, may have been enriched by a larger discussion of market trends, consumer experiences, the history, and the overll framework, to make for a more comprehensive understanding of Amrut's significance in the local and global market. The book could perhaps have employed a wider lens, expanding more on the macro context and more organically situating Amrut’s story, and offering a more rounded and embodied view of its international impact.
Still, Amrut is an engaging chronicle of innovation, perseverance, and success. Devatha’s thorough research and engaging narrative offer readers a comprehensive look at Amrut Distilleries’ journey and its significance in the world of whiskey. The book is a valuable resource for enthusiasts of spirits, industry professionals, and anyone interested in the story of a brand that has made a lasting impact on the market. The account will undoubtedly leave readers with a deeper appreciation for Amrut, especially those interested in the intersection of tradition, innovation, and global commerce.
Amrut, the Great Churn: The Global Story of India’s First Single Malt, Sriram Devatha, Westland.
