On the evening of August 15, as the rest of the country was winding down their Independence Day celebrations, the party was just beginning in Goa.

In North Goa’s Anjuna village jurisdiction alone, there were more than 25 advertised club events.

Goa is India’s favourite party destination but not everyone has their dancing shoes on. For the beleaguered residents of the coastal villages along North Goa, this has meant window-rattling and bone-thumping music that begins every night and goes on well into the early hours of the morning.

The village of Anjuna, especially, sees an extraordinary number of music events every single day. With a high density of clubs and open-air venues in the area, the deafening music can be heard even 3 km or 4 km away from the source.

This has been the case for years, even decades, now.

But Independence Day this year was a tipping point.

With loud music reverberating around, residents of Anjuna and Vagator took out a candle march to protest against and to document the illegal playing of music over permissible decibel levels. As residents went around the hotspots of Anjuna, ample violations were evident.

What pushed frustrated residents onto the streets at midnight was the open flouting of court orders as well as the disregard for noise rules despite meetings with local legislators and discussions with the police.

Credit: Inacio Fernandes and Desmond Alvares.

A tipping point?

Dr Inacio Fernandes, a local resident who has been present at meetings with the authorities and the candlelight marches held from August 15-18, said the Anjuna Police had assured residents that noise pollution rules will be followed: music before 10 pm within noise limits and no music after 10 pm.

“At 1 am [on August 15] the music restarted,” said Fernandes. At 2 am, residents were back at the police station where they requested Police Sub-Inspector Ramesh to take action. Earlier, Ramesh’s superior, Police Inspector Paresh Naik, had assured the residents that there would be no noise. After the residents waited for around two-and-a-half hours, PSI Ramesh told them that “the sound is possibly because of generators”, said Fernandes.

The music carried on through the night, according to Fernandes. “We have video evidence; we have gone to the venues,” he said. “PSI Ramesh finally put his hands in the air and walked out while we were still talking and told us that he cannot do anything.” Fernandes said that the residents were told to put their complaints in a letter or an application that Ramesh would show to his seniors.

Credit: Inacio Fernandes.

Between January and August, there were three meetings between local residents and the Anjuna police – there are dozens of clubs within a kilometre radius of the Anjuna Police station. Siolim legislator Delilah Lobo was present at these meetings as well. Anjuna and nearby villages fall under Siolim constituency.

On the first night of the protests, South Goa Member of Parliament Capt Viriato Fernandes and Goa Congress President Amit Patkar showed up in solidarity. However, Lobo has been conspicuously absent since then.

“The past few nights have proved all our fears,” said Fernandes. “We expect the police to help but get only fake promises.”

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A video by a local resident of noise pollution.

No respite from noise

Noise is a documented health hazard but one that is not seen as a major problem in India despite several Supreme Court rulings calling for the enforcement of noise regulations. India has clear noise pollution rules and guidelines that prohibit loud music after 10 pm but these are rarely enforced.

In Goa, political patronage, corruption and the steady stream of domestic tourists makes clubbing a lucrative enterprise, one that is not likely to be quietened, literally. Over the years, residents of Goa have submitted numerous complaints, made rounds of the police stations and have taken the authorities to court for failure to enforce the Noise Pollution Regulation and Rules, 2000. The rules clearly state that no music is permissible beyond 10 pm. The limit for residential areas is 45 decibels. Under Section 268 of the Indian Penal Code, noise is considered a public nuisance.

In the party hub that Anjuna has become, residents have trouble sleeping, children are unable to sleep or study and the elderly are showing signs of stress from the non-stop noise. “There are enough documented links between noise levels and its effects on health,” said Fernandes. “The lack of sleep, exhaustion, frustration and the endless ringing in our ears is really traumatic.”

Janie Crasto, a resident of Vagator who lives close to many clubs, said music plays all night and often during the day as well. Crasto’s 10-year-old son is autistic and has seizures as well. “He is on strong medications and needs sleep to rest,” she said. “The constant boom-boom of the loud music hurts him and prevents him from sleeping.” Crasto said she struggles to help her child concentrate. “The noise makes it difficult for me to reach my child. It’s not right.”

Credit: Inacio Fernandes.

Desmond Alvares, a senior citizen and resident of Assagao, says he has been fighting noise pollution in Goa since 2000. Alvares, who can hear music in his house 3 km-4 km away from the clubs, said the “noise has escalated in recent years”. He has been instrumental in questioning local authorities, filing public interest litigations and contempt petitions and providing information and encouragement to residents willing to fight along “The courts have been very supportive and officers should be taken to task for not following the law,” he said.

Crasto asked why the local panchayat was not revoking the licences of establishments that were violating rules. There were many loopholes with several departments involved, she said. “They should shut down illegal activity,” she said. “We are not against tourism – we just want legal businesses that don’t disturb others. We don’t want our children to grow up with this.”

On July 12, the High Court of Bombay in Goa had said that all real-time noise monitoring systems should be in place at all establishments that have permission to play music and that the Goa State Pollution Control Board should monitor levels. “Matters are getting out of hand,” said Justice MS Karnik.

Thirty-two establishments that were given consent to operate by the Goa State Pollution Control Board were issued a corrigendum to install a display board on their premises, showing decibel levels in real time.

But a month later, nothing had changed, sparking the protests on Independence Day.

Growing support

Since then, the ripples are already being felt. After just two nights of candlelight protests, one of the biggest clubs in Anjuna, Raeeth, cancelled a four-day festival “due to sound restriction by the Goa government”.

On August 17, the Duty Master of Anjuna Police Station, Constable Rama Parab, was suspended by North Goa Superintendent of Police Akshat Kaushal for dereliction of duty and for “colluding with clubs and pubs playing loud music”, according to local media reports.

“Parab is a scapegoat,” said Alvares. “It is the PI who has to take action.” Alvares was referring to Police Inspector Naik who should have acted on the complaints by residents. During a hearing by the High Court of Bombay at Goa on August 19, Justice Valmiki Menezes said that the court will “hold the superintendent of police responsible” for the violation of noise pollution rules.

What happens when residents slow down their protests? Will the status quo return? “Protests help but they are not the only avenue,” said Crasto.

For complaints to be taken seriously, and for evidence in court cases, residents have to follow a series of steps: call the police hotline, take videos documenting the sound – with a global positioning system, or GPS, location visible – send emails to government agencies, including the police, and follow up with emails, letters or applications under the Right to Information Act. Locals across North Goa’s villages are now helping each other with documentation, advice and support.

“This is an epidemic,” said Fernandes. “It’s not just the villagers of Anjuna but those of Calangute, Siolim and others who have come out in solidarity.” Fernades said they understand what the others are going through. “We need to prevent further deterioration.”

Alvares is exhausted but feels that things are moving well. “For the first time, everyone came together and decided to come out on the streets. I feel motivated,” he said.

Despite the long nights on the streets, Fernandes too feels “positive about the outcome.” “I hope the sound waves will somehow reach authorities who can help us, and grant us our constitutional rights.”

Chryselle D’Silva Dias is a journalist based in Goa. Her handle on X is @chryselled.