Native to the vast, arid grasslands of Rajasthan’s Pokhran region is a small, burrow-dwelling reptile that can often be hard to spot. The spiny-tailed lizard (Saara hardwickii) is India’s only herbivorous lizard found in the arid and semi-arid regions of Rajasthan, Gujarat and some parts of Haryana.
The lizard, found on hard sandy and gravel plains, lives in large colonies or lounges, but prefers the solitude of its burrow, each inhabited by a single individual. It is part of the diet of other desert fauna like raptors, desert foxes and snakes. The reptile is diurnal, spending most of its day basking and foraging, and returning to its burrow at sunset for safety.
While burrows offer safety from predator fauna, they are accessible to poachers and hunters. “This one was dug by poachers,” says wildlife conservationist Radheshyam Bishnoi, sitting next to a freshly dug burrow in one such lizard colony in Pokhran’s Bhadariya Oran.
Locally known as “sanda” or “sandho”, the spiny-tailed lizard is endowed with a distinct, fat tail covered in sharp spines, where it stores fat for its long hibernation season – an evolutionary strategy to survive in the arid ecosystem. However, the very tail that is crucial to the lizard’s survival also attracts hunters and poachers.
Despite being listed under Schedule I of the Wildlife Protection Act, 1972 and classified as “Vulnerable” by the IUCN Red List, this species continues to be sought after for its oil. Extracted from the fat in its tail, its oil is sold as “sande ka tel”, a popular aphrodisiac widely used across South Asia.
A 2020 study of the habitat, population status and threats to the lizard highlights that the presence of the species is no longer observed in many parts of surveyed districts from where it was previously reported.
Traded for a tail and a delicacy
Showing images and videos of poachers on his phone, Bishnoi explained that some poachers inspect burrows in the early morning and set a trap. “Once the lizard comes out, it gets trapped. They then pull it out or simply dig out the burrow.” Once they capture the lizard, they break its spine and paralyse the reptile.
Bishnoi, along with many others from the community, has apprehended numerous poachers during patrols over the past decade.
“These poachers are most active during the monsoon season when the soil becomes moist, making it easier to dig up the burrows,” says Bishnoi. “Sometimes, during the peak season, we report eight-10 cases of poaching in the Thar Desert region per month.”
Poaching of the spiny-tailed lizard is not rare in western Rajasthan, especially in Jaisalmer, Barmer, Jodhpur and Churu, where it is predominantly found.
A 2024 study on spiny-tailed lizard conservation in western Rajasthan highlights, “Poaching, illegal trade and trade route dynamics at Ramdevra, Bap and Diyatra areas of Rajasthan, are found to be the major reasons for the decline in spiny tailed lizard numbers, despite the species being listed as protected in the Indian Wildlife (Protection) Act, 1972.”
According to a 2023 study, local communities believe that the meat and oil of this lizard act as sexual stimulants and increase sexual potency in men.
Law enforcement
Seventy-year-old Loon Nath Jogi, a local resident who traditionally hunts and consumes the spiny-tailed lizard, explains, “In the past, we used to eat sanda, foxes, and many other wildlife species. But for the last decade or so, the government has strictly prohibited hunting, so we have stopped.”
He adds that many from the community have since transitioned to other means of livelihood, such as agricultural labour and daily wage jobs.
However, forest guards and officials from the Pokhran and Desert National Park landscape say that poaching and illegal trade are still prevalent, though they have become more clandestine in nature.
Speaking to Mongabay India on the condition of anonymity, a forest guard from the region said, “A few years ago, if we caught someone hunting a spiny-tailed lizard, they would say, ‘It’s just a lizard.’ Even forest officials would often let poachers – mostly locals – off with just a warning or a small fine.”
Stringent punishment
Rampant hunting and sporadic incidents of poaching have led to a consistent decline in their population over the years. This led to the species being moved up from Schedule II to I in the India Wildlife (Protection) Amendment Act, 2022. Since then, the maximum punishment for poaching a spiny-tailed lizard is three to seven years.
“Earlier, poaching the lizard was a compoundable offense and the punishment was not stringent. Even in cases when we got hold of poachers, they would get away with just a Rs 5,000 fine,” explains former District Forest Officer, Jaisalmer, Devendra Kumar Bhardwaj.
However, lax enforcement of the law is not the only issue, he notes. It’s difficult to prove cases related to wildlife crimes due to the lack of witnesses and evidence, allowing many poachers to exploit these loopholes.
Habitat loss
Wildlife biologist Sumit Dookia, a professor at University School of Environment Management, GGS Indraprastha University, says that illegal trade and poaching of the lizard have been consistent, but new threats like expansion of agricultural lands and renewable energy projects are leading to a wiping out of arid grasslands.
“Various government-supported irrigation projects like the canal (Indira Gandhi Nahar) in Jaisalmer and free grazing pastures are shrinking the habitat rapidly,” he explains.
Though no official census confirms the lizard population as yet, the 2020 population status in the six districts of Thar desert region highlights habitat destruction as one of the major threats. “Human population is increasing and agriculture is expanding due to introduction of India Gandhi Nahar (Canal) Project in the TDR [Thar desert region],” it states.
Bishnoi said, “The lizards live in hard sandy and gravel soil habitat, which the government considers as a wasteland only suitable for renewable energy projects. Projects in Sanawara, Chanani and Devikot have already destroyed lizard habitat.”
In 2022, IUCN Red List upgraded the spiny-tailed lizard from “Data Deficient” to “Vulnerable”, due to its consistent population decline.
Bhardwaj explains that poaching would only end with awareness being raised regarding superstitions about the oil – a thought echoed by Baiju Raj, a herpetologist and Director of Conservation Projects – Reptiles at Wildlife SOS.
“The spiny-tailed lizard isn’t an exotic species like tigers, bears, or elephants, which receive more attention. As a result, species like these are under-documented, hindering conservation efforts. We need to thoroughly study and document such species to better inform and support their conservation,” Raj adds.
This article was first published on Mongabay.
