Eating a hot roti with butter or ghee is an almost sublime experience. It would be difficult to find anyone who disagrees with this statement. But, is there a standard, “typical” roti? The answer, quite obviously, is no. The roti is a non-fermented traditional Indian bread and, in a country as vast as India, every state, every town, every village, every household, in fact, has its own version of it. There can be many reasons for the difference – the type of flour used, or how much water is added to the dough, how long it is kneaded, how long it is left to breathe, is it rolled or patted out by hand, how thick or thin it is rolled out, is it finished on the tava or on the flame and, last but not the least, how much love has gone into its making.
Whole wheat flour is best for making an aromatic and tasty roti the Indian way, though flour from different sources may differ in taste and texture. Whole wheat flour is easily available in India, but if you cannot find it, look for a flour that is not highly refined, as those make a dough that is sticky and pasty. On the other hand, the flour should not have a high bran content either, as it does not allow the dough to bind well, which results in a roti that cracks easily.
Simple as it may be, water is essential to bind the dough. It may be necessary to make slight adjustments to the quantity given in recipes while kneading. Never pour in the water all at once – begin with a little and mix it in the flour, add some more and collect all the flour into one crumbly whole. Start kneading, adding a little water at a time as you go along till you have one compact dough ball that does not fall apart. It should not be too stiff or hard – if you think it is, sprinkle a little more water. A good roti dough is soft and pliable.
After kneading, the dough must be kept aside for a minimum of 15 minutes. This allows the gluten to develop properly, increasing the overall elasticity of the dough, making it easier to roll out and resulting in softer rotis. It is important to cover the dough when it is kept aside to prevent a crust forming on the surface as it dries out. This dry, grainy crust will hinder the smooth rolling of the roti and may cause it to tear.
Making dough balls for individual rotis is not merely about portioning the dough. The dough should be shaped into perfect spheres by applying gentle pressure as they are rolled between the palms, and then flattened to a disc. A perfect disc will make it easier to achieve a circular roti. From here, there are two basic ways to extend the disc to the required size. One is to use a rolling pin – it is awe-inspiring to watch the proficient lightly wield a rolling pin as the dough disc, seemingly of its own volition, rotates slowly under it to extend into a perfect circle. As a beginner, it is fine to lift and turn the dough while rolling out the rotis to achieve the circular shape. While dry flour is needed to prevent the dough from sticking to the work surface, keep in mind the amount of dry flour used makes a difference – too much tends to dry out the roti.
The other way to make a roti is to not use a rolling pin at all. Instead, flatten and extend the dough ball by pressing it between your palms. This is a common method in homes where slightly thicker rotis are preferred. These handcrafted rotis are just as delicious, though there is a slight difference in the final texture as a rolling pin presses and packs the dough more tightly. The hand technique is also preferred for flours from other grains that are difficult to handle.
Rotis are best cooked on a tava. Always warm the tava on medium heat before placing the roti on it. A slight colour change signals that it is time to flip the roti. Having flipped it, watch for tiny blisters that form on the surface. Flip again if they do not form, as these indicate that the roti is ready to face the flame. Remove the tava, turn up the flame, place the roti directly on it, and let it puff up.
While rotis are best served hot, modern lifestyles are not always conducive to such luxury. If not serving immediately, what works best is to spread some ghee – as much or as little as you are comfortable with – evenly between two rotis by rubbing them together. Then place the paired rotis in a double-walled insulated container with a paper napkin lining the base. When the rotis have cooled a bit, cover them with another paper napkin and close the box. The paper napkins will absorb any moisture, preventing the rotis from getting soggy and they will remain soft.
Rotis can also be stored in the refrigerator for about two days. They must be cooled, then kept in an airtight container, or wrapped in cling-film or foil. Reheat them on a tava on medium heat. If using a microwave, place them between two paper napkins in a covered dish for 30 seconds.
While whole wheat flour is the primary flour used for rotis, one cannot overlook the large variety of rotis made of other grains eaten all over the country. Regional differences in the grains used were based on seasonal availability. Today, with modern storage facilities and transportation, “seasonal” is no longer relevant. However, fresh, in-season flours are the best flours to use as they are without preservatives. If buying packaged flours, which are more easily available, it is important to check the production and use-by dates.
Over the years, experimentation and a desire for variation have given rise to two offshoots of the simple roti. One, by adding ingredients to the dough – dry spices, including salt, and minced fresh herbs. These can be added directly to the flour and dry-mixed before kneading. Wet ingredients such as leafy greens and cooked lentils can also be added. These actually serve as the binder, in which case very little or almost no water is required while kneading. Ingredients such as fresh, non-set paneer can also be crumbled into the dry flour and then kneaded while sprinkling water to make the dough. The one exception I have found is that fresh tomatoes cannot be added to the dough – they can be used only if cooked till all their water content is lost.
The second is the art of making a stuffed roti, which is specific to every household. To my mind, stuffed rotis may have started off as a “no waste” preference. Any leftover cooked vegetables can be mashed and stuffed into a roti. The addition of minced fresh coriander before mashing the leftover vegetables gives a fresh flavour to these rotis. But, whether leftover or fresh, it is important that the stuffing be dry and at room temperature. If it is warm or there is even a hint of water, the dough will not roll out. This is also why stuffed rotis are almost always made from whole wheat flour – the dough is pliable and lends itself to being stretched and pulled as required.
While a roti may look simple, its making is anything but – do not get disheartened if your first attempt, the second, or even the third looks nothing like it should. The secret is that practice makes perfect!
Excerpted with permission from Roti: 90 Simple Recipes for the Indian Bread and Its Accompaniments, Anuradha Ravindranath, Penguin Random House India.
