Borhani

by Munmun Mukherjee, West Bengal

Borhani is a treasured part of my culinary heritage, rich with memories and cultural significance. During my university days, I savoured it at my best friend’s home and at lively wedding celebrations. My friend’s mother would prepare it with great care, blending yogurt with green chillies, mint, sugar, and salt to create a refreshing and vibrant drink.

Every glass of Borhani I had was a reflection of the joyful gatherings and strong bonds I formed during those times, making it a cherished part of my life.

Now, making Borhani allows me to reconnect with those warm memories and the spirit of hospitality. This heirloom recipe is more than just a drink – it represents family, tradition, and the comforting essence of home.

Ingredients (serves 3–4)

  • Yogurt 300 gms, thickened

  • Cumin powder 1 tsp, roasted

  • White pepper powder ½ tsp

  • Ginger paste ½ tsp

  • White mustard paste 1 tsp

  • Coriander leaf paste 1 tsp

  • Mint leaf paste 1 tsp

  • Green chilli paste 1 tsp

  • Black salt a pinch

  • Sugar 30 gms

  • Salt to taste

  • Water 80 ml

  • Coriander leaves to garnish

  • Mint leaves to garnish

Method

  • To thicken the yogurt, tie it in a muslin cloth and hang it for a while to allow the excess water to drain out.

  • In a mixing bowl, take the thickened yogurt and add roasted cumin powder, white pepper powder, black salt, and finely ground ginger paste, white mustard paste, coriander leaf paste, mint leaf paste, and green chilli paste. Mix all the ingredients thoroughly.

  • Then, add 10 grams of sugar and salt to taste, adjusting both according to your preference.

  • Using a whisk or blender, mix everything until well combined. Then slowly add water, and stir until the mixture is smooth and colourful.

  • Put the drink in the refrigerator and let it rest for a few hours to blend the flavours and enhance its refreshing quality.

Serving suggestion: Before serving, garnish the Borhani with a few mint and coriander leaves to add a dash of colour and freshness. Serve it with grilled kebabs like Seekh Kebabs, Shami Kebabs, or Chicken Tikka. The cool, spicy drink offers a refreshing contrast to the smoky, savoury meat.

Note: Borhani is a classic accompaniment to rich, flavourful rice dishes like Dhakai Tehari, Biryani, or Pilaf. The tangy and spicy yogurt drink helps balance the richness and spices of these dishes. Borhani also serves as a palate cleanser, making it an essential part of festive meals.

Malwani Crab Curry

by Kavita Bagga, Maharashtra

Though my roots are in Jammu and Kashmir and Punjab, I have spent a considerable part of my life in Maharashtra, especially between Mumbai and Goa. It was here that my love affair with seafood began, and I learned many local dishes from the humble homes of my domestic staff. The ocean feeds the world, and living by the coast offers a profound understanding of its role in sustaining life. I have often sat by the sea, watching the hopeful fishermen set out at sunrise with their nets and return joyously with the fresh catch of the day. Every bountiful haul makes up for those less fortunate days when the nets return empty.

My favourite sight is the little kids who run up to these boats as they wash ashore, eager to pick up any fish or shrimp that may slip through the nets – these often become their next meal. Among all the dishes I’ve embraced, Malwani Crab Curry holds a special place in my heart. It has become a family favourite, and I believe it has also earned me culinary acclaim among friends!

Ingrdients (serves 5–6)

  • Crabs 8, small, cleaned and cut into pieces

  • For the paste: Byadagi red chillies 4, Red chilli powder 1 tsp, Coriander seeds 2 tsp, Fennel seeds 1½ tsp, Fenugreek seeds ¼ tsp, Cumin seeds 1 tsp, Black peppercorns 1 /3 tsp, Green cardamom 2–3, Cinnamon 1-inch piece, Fresh coconut 200 gms, grated

  • For the curry: Onions 2, large, chopped Ginger ½ tbsp, grated Garlic ½ tbsp, chopped and smashed Coconut milk 400 ml, Curry leaves 2–3 sprigs, Tomatoes 2, medium-sized, finely chopped Kokum 3–4 pieces, soaked in warm water, Coconut oil 2–3 tbsp, Coriander leaves 2 tbsp, finely chopped, to garnish, Salt to taste

Method

  • Dry roast all the spices for the paste until aromatic. Ensure that the spices don’t burn. Then, grind them with the grated coconut to make a coarse paste and keep aside.

  • Heat coconut oil in a kadhai or deep wok. Add the chopped onions and sauté until tender.

  • Add the curry leaves, ginger, and garlic. Sauté until the mixture turns golden brown.

  • Now, add the tomatoes and dry masala paste made earlier. Cook until the oil separates from the mixture.

  • Add salt and a little coconut milk. Cook until well combined.

  • Once the curry is well-cooked, add the rest of the coconut milk and let it come to a boil. The quantity of coconut milk can be adjusted as per the desired curry consistency.

  • Then, add the crabs and soaked kokum pieces to the curry. Cover and cook for about 15 minutes, or till the crabs are fully cooked and the shells turn orange.

  • Garnish with freshly chopped coriander.

Serving suggestion: Serve hot with white or rosematta rice.

Excerpted with permission from Flavours of India: Heirloom Recipes from India’s Kitchens, Neela Kaushik, Aleph Book Company.