Grandmum’s Tariwala Chicken Curry
Tariwala chicken for me is like giving my grandmum, Barima, a big bear hug and feeling comforted in her embrace. I become a child again! I think it was this Punjabi homestyle chicken curry, simple and comforting, that laid the foundation of my love for chicken recipes. My earliest memories of enjoying chicken were tariwala chicken drumsticks in a silky sauce made by my darling Barima. Her recipes were no-fuss with basic ingredients.
The uniqueness of tariwala chicken is synonymous with its name: tariwala in Punjabi language means “containing liquid-y sauce”. As I grew to explore chicken curries, it dawned on me that every Punjabi household in India probably has its own version of tariwala chicken. Ours, for example, always included chicken on the bone, never marinated beforehand, cooked with whole spices and garnished with garam masala – because my Barima always did that with her curries.
It’s only fair that I pay homage to my loving, pious and soft Barima and her style of cooking chicken.
If you decide to freeze the curry, add a teaspoon of butter while reheating it.
Ingredients
2 tbsp neutral oil 1 tsp butter (optional)
1 bay leaf
1 brown cardamom pod
4–5 green cardamom pods
1–2 cloves 2.5cm
1-inch cinnamon stick
5–6 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 white onions, finely chopped 2.5cm
1 inch piece of root ginger, grated
½ tsp ground black pepper
1 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp ground turmeric
1 tbsp ground coriander
1 tsp deggi mirch, or any red chilli powder
1 tsp chicken curry masala
3 large tomatoes or 400g/14oz can of plum/ chopped tomatoes, puréed
Salt, to taste
1 tsp Kashmiri red chilli powder
1–2 green chillies, slit or chopped (optional)
500g/1lb 2oz skinless chicken drumsticks, with tendons
250ml/9fl oz/1 cup warm water
1 tsp dried fenugreek leaves
1 tsp plain yogurt
1 tsp garam masala to garnish
1 tbsp fresh coriander/ cilantro leaves, chopped, to garnish
Method
Heat the oil and butter (if using) in a nonstick saucepan on a medium heat and, once hot, add all the whole spices – the bay leaf, cardamom pods, cloves and cinnamon stick – and fry for 30 seconds until fragrant. Add the chopped garlic and fry for 30–40 seconds until translucent. Add the onions and fry until browned, which can take 12–15 minutes. Stir frequently to fry evenly and prevent burning. Browning the onions well adds a beautiful colour to the sauce.
Turn down the heat to low, add the grated ginger and fry for less than a minute. Add the ground black pepper, cumin, turmeric, coriander, deggi mirch and homemade chicken curry masala (if using) and fry for 4–5 minutes. Add a tablespoon of water to prevent the spices from burning.
Turn the heat back up to medium, pour in the puréed tomatoes, add salt and cook for 8–10 minutes until the water has reduced, the mixture is thick and there is oil on the sides on the pan.
Add the Kashmiri red chilli powder and green chillies (if using) and mix well.
Turn the heat up to high. Add the chicken drumsticks and coat each in the mixture. After 5 minutes, stir in the warm water and mix well. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to medium-low, cover the pan with a lid and cook the drumsticks for 20 minutes, or until cooked through. If you use chicken breast or thigh pieces, the cooking time will be shorter.
Sprinkle over the dried fenugreek leaves and the yogurt and mix well. Take the curry off the heat. Garnish with the garam masala and the chopped coriander/cilantro.
Goes great with rice or garlic butter naan and onion slices or kachumber.
Goan Galinha Cafreal
None of my trips to the western coastal state of Goa is complete without trying their native chicken dishes. Goan cuisine is a beautiful amalgamation of the historic influence of the Portuguese traders who lived there for centuries and the local spices and herbs. Goan galinha cafreal is no different. This chicken dish’s origins can be linked to the Portuguese colonies in Africa, particularly Mozambique, where it was known as frango à cafreal. This Afro-Lusitanian dish was brought to Goa by Portuguese sailors in the 16th century. Galinha is the Portuguese word for chicken. Today, most restaurants, as well as many beach shacks in Goa, will serve you cafreal.
This rustic and spicy appetiser is fairly simple to make, with the main star being the delicious marinade paste, the cafreal masala, made from fresh coriander/cilantro leaves, vinegar and spices. Traditionally, this dish is made with chicken leg quarters. I have made it with whole breast pieces, to save cooking time and for those who love leaner boneless chicken. I have used an air fryer, but the pan-fried method and grill/broiler method are in the recipe and notes too. This chicken appetiser is served with sliced potatoes but if you are feeling lazy, you could simply defrost some frozen potato wedges to go with it.
A distinctly delicious appetiser for a dinner with friends, or a gorgeous main for two.
Ingredients
2 skinless chicken breasts
½ tsp ground turmeric
1 tsp salt 4–6 tbsp neutral oil
2–3 baby potatoes, sliced
1 small red onion, sliced
2 spring onions/scallions, roughly chopped (optional)
1 green pepper, deseeded and sliced
1 tomato, sliced
A few fresh coriander/ cilantro leaves, to garnish
A few lemon wedges, to garnish
1–2 red chillies, sliced, to garnish (optional)
For the cafreal masala paste: 2 handfuls of fresh coriander/ cilantro, roughly chopped; 5–6 garlic cloves, roughly chopped; 2.5cm/1in piece of root ginger, roughly chopped; 2 tsp white wine vinegar; ¼ tsp sugar; ½ tsp cumin seeds; 1 tsp black peppercorns; 1 tsp coriander seeds; 3 green cardamom pods; 2 cloves; 1 bay leaf 1cm/½in cinnamon stick 1–2 green chillies, roughly chopped (optional)
Method
For the cafreal paste, blitz all the ingredients in a blender to make a smooth paste. Add a tablespoon or two of water, but use sparingly, as the consistency should be slightly thick.
To marinate the chicken, put the chicken breasts into a large bowl with the cafreal masala paste. (Keep a tablespoon of the paste aside for sautéing the veggies later.) Add the ground turmeric, ½ teaspoon of the salt and 1 tablespoon of the oil and mix well so the chicken is well coated. Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.
To air-fry, arrange the chicken in the air fryer basket, without overlapping, and cook for 15–16 minutes at 200°C/400°F. Flip halfway. Baste with a tablespoon of oil in the last minute. Shake the basket a couple of times during the frying process for a crispier exterior. Leave to cool slightly, then slice lengthways.
To pan-fry, heat 3 tablespoons of oil in a frying pan/skillet on a high heat and, once hot, add the breast pieces and cook for 2–3 minutes on each side to bind the paste to the chicken. Repeat for another minute, until it’s slightly browned. Turn down the heat to low, cover and cook the chicken until tender, which can take about 8–10 minutes, depending on the thickness of the chicken breasts. Flip them occasionally and baste with the marinade in the pan. Take the pan off the heat, and once cooled slightly, slice the chicken lengthways.
While the chicken is cooking in the air fryer/ pan, heat 2 tablespoons of oil in another pan on a medium heat. Once hot, add the potatoes and ¼ teaspoon of the remaining salt and fry until golden brown on the outside and cooked on the inside, 12–18 minutes, depending on thickness.
Put the remaining tablespoon of the marinade paste into a third pan on a medium heat and fry for 2 minutes. Now, throw in the onion, spring onions/scallions, peppers and the remaining salt, and sauté for 5 minutes. Add the sliced tomato, mix well and cook for another minute. Turn off the heat.
Garnish with the chopped coriander/ cilantro, lemon wedges and chillies (if using). If eating as a main, serve with potatoes and vegetables.
Excerpted with permission from No Worries, Just Chicken Curries: 70 incredible Indian Chicken Recipes, Suki Pantal, HarperCollins India.
